INSTAGRAM | @ymclondon

IN 2021, when the world was in and out of lockdown and people had far too much time on their hands, the internet became obsessed with the resurgence of ‘indie sleaze’.

It was a throwback – spearheaded by Gen Z and TikTok – to a hedonistic period of the late oughts and early noughties, characterised by stark American Apparel ads, The Strokes’ debut album and regrettable fringes. In truth, it was always a loosely defined thing that seemed to straddle different scenes and fashion tribes.

Three years later, we’re yet to see a glaringly obvious IRL return to the aesthetic: skinny jeans are yet to be worn en masse (not including those who never stopped wearing them), and cross necklaces aren’t worn in a non-religious, ironic way. But 2024 may be the year that Creepers, the definitive shoe of the Tumblr-documented era, makes a comeback.

Today, London brand YMC is launching a collaboration with George Cox, a label that invented and popularised the shoe back in 1949. Having updated the Hatton design in two unisex silhouettes, you can take your pick of a more discreet suede apron or out-there leopard print, both with contrast stitching and black hardware perched atop a corrugated crepe sole – naturally.

While these echo the traditional designs that Teddy Boys from the fifties popularised, other brands are bringing the silhouette into 2024 by fusing it with other shoe shapes.

Sabato De Sarno’s first menswear collection since joining Gucci last year had the Italian brand’s classic Horsebit loafer stacked onto the famed chunky sole, in a mix of studded styles (very 2000s punk band) and monogrammed styles.

Gucci autumn/winter ’24 | Getty Images

While in the sneaker-sphere, Fenty and Puma brought back their beloved Creeper silhouette in a chunkier format last year, dubbed the Creeper Phatty. Maria Valdes, chief product officer at the latter said in a statement at the time: “The original Creeper changed the game for us. We knew it was time to bring it back. This shoe has universal appeal and we’ve seen tremendous consumer excitement for the silhouette to return.” The duo released a new colourway with a red-carpet event in London this past April.

And despite Adidas’ reputation for a slimline silhouette – with thanks to the popularity of the SL 72s and, of course, the Samba – you can now get Gazelles with an extra-thick gum sole.

While these styles aren’t an obvious reinterpretation of the Creeper, the shoe’s main component evidently has influence. So as well as seeing that leather lace-up striding up and down sidewalks from London to Sydney, expect to see more flat shoes with elevated soles.

The skinny jeans are still some way off, though.

Related:

Are Adidas Superstars cool again?

The best Nike SB Dunks, ranked