ON THE EVE OF EMPORIO ARMANI’S spring/summer 2026 show at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, an unprecedented announcement landed: the designer would not attend his shows. But despite his absence – the first time in his storied career to not wave to the crowd after the show – the imprint of the 90-year-old maestro couldn’t be more present.

Drawing from African culture – its signs, colours and symbolic motifs – Armani wove together a collection defined by lightness, fluidity and a global sensibility. The clothes looked to the future while referencing deeply rooted traditions, creating a wardrobe that felt expansive, eclectic and strikingly now. The Emporio label merged streetwear with its classic codes in a way that felt completely fresh without ever verging on inauthenticity.

Geometric motifs and tactile textures spoke to local craftsmanship, layered across soft jackets worn against bare skin, wide trousers and flowing tunics. Crepe and linen ranged from coarse to silky soft; a study in contrasts, both ancient and futuristic. There were echoes of Moroccan mosaics and Berber tents; smocked stitching recalled ritual tattoos. Beadwork and silk embroidery followed steady, geometric rhythms. Accessories included woven slippers, oversized bags, straw hats, and amulets.

In his absence, Armani presented not just a collection, but a vision: worldly, soulful and unmistakably his. Scroll on to discover the collection.

 Emporio Armani spring/summer 2026: