FENDI

THE INNER WORKINGS of the world’s biggest luxury fashion houses are typically kept under lock and key. So when Fendi announced it would hold its spring/summer 2024 menswear show inside its new Fendi Factory, where all of its bags are made, the fashion world responded with a proverbial ‘OMG’. From the Peekaboo to the Baguette, bags are the brand’s bestsellers; the techniques used to craft them among its most valuable IP. 

But Silvia Venturini Fendi, the Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear at Fendi, isn’t about exclusivity for exclusivities sake. This season, her intention was to invite us into the embrace of the family-run business and its new, state-of-the-art manufacturing plant. Couched in the Tuscan hillside, as per the show notes, the factory is “a destination for the artisans for the future.” 

FENDI

Staged inside the earth and concrete-clad building, in front of workbenches manned by the house’s artisans (who toiled away throughout the show), the brand’s spring/summer 2024 collection formed an ingenious nod to the impeccable craftsmanship that underpins the Fendi men’s universe, and in particular its accessories. In some cases, this nod was very literal — a number of models walked with leather toolkits stocked with actual tools slung around their hips, while others wore denim aprons and measuring tapes around their necks. 

Monogrammed coffee cups in Fendi honeycomb and black were an extremely fun addition. Here’s hoping they make it to the brand’s stores, because few status symbols come more chic and practical than that. 

FENDI

Elsewhere, the artisanal inspiration was more conceptual. Long halter neck tops in earthy tones were derived from the silhouette of an apron, while jackets with contrast stitching, crafted from unbleached cotton drill, could be traced back to the calico patterns that form the starting point of each design. 

Yet the reference never felt too on-the-nose. Many looks — like a netted green top worn with sporty beige trousers and clogs, this season’s hottest shoe — held their own as very cool, wearable options, while simultaneously fitting into the broader mix. Ultimately, this is the marker of a strong collection — one that contains looks that make just as much sense individually as they do within the broader context of the collection. 

FENDI

Backstage after the show, Venturini Fendi told journalists she was exploring the archetype of “the corporate artisan.” It sounds like an oxymoron, but when unpacked, it makes more sense. The artistic director isn’t necessarily referring to the personality sock-wearing guy we might associate with the word ‘corporate’, but the technological industriousness that brings Fendi collections to life. 

This was underscored by the factory setting, an “innovative hub dedicated to excellence in fine leather goods”, as well as the collection itself. Not only did it pose as a look behind the scenes, but a peek into the mind of a designer who refuses to stop innovating — or having fun. 

FENDI

Related: Severity, softness and razor sharp shoulders at Saint Laurent

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