Five Fits With: Steve Calder of Informale
The tailor chats with Esquire about starting his own brand, his tips on how to wear a suit more casually, and how he went from being a skater boy to one of Melbourne's sharpest dressers
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STEVE CALDER has his dad to thank for his interest in style. While most of us got our first jobs stacking shelves at the supermarket or making coffees at the local cafe, Calder’s father helped him find a job at a small menswear store in Melbourne.
Working the floor, he would talk to other stylish men, learning their tips and tricks in relation to finding good quality clothes that fit well. Such an organic approach to personal style may sound alien in our e-commerce world, but Calder has seen it come full-circle. Men in his home city of Melbourne are now seeking out clothing from smaller, independent, niche brands, and many prefer shopping in store. Calder’s brand Informale, which he founded with his partner in work and life in 2018, is his way of giving back to the long tradition of Melbourne style.
Located in the city’s East End, since launching, Informale has been making casual menswear on vintage patterns, mixed with military staples and Italian tailoring. It’s an appreciation for the classics that Calder has been cultivating since that first job, carrying it into stints as a tailoring specialist for luxury brands such as Gucci and Zegna. You can see it in some of his fits for this shoot: safari jackets for the urban jungle, or bringing vintage Americana into streetwear. It’s these flourishes and melange of styles that hark back to his early teens on Myspace as a self-confessed skater kid.
Recently, Calder ran us through five of his favourite fits, as we talked about his journey in the industry, his style tips on how to make a made-to-measure suit less stuffy, what he thinks on the current state of Australian men’s style, and his favourite brick and mortar stores around Melbourne.
Fit one
Esquire: Let’s start from the beginning, where did you grow up? And where do you call home now?
Steve Calder: I was born in Auckland, New Zealand, and spent most of my childhood in a small town called Tauranga, by the coast. I moved to Melbourne with my family when I was a teenager and still call Melbourne my home. Safe to say I’m glad we made the move!
What was considered ‘stylish’ or ‘cool’ when you were growing up?
I’ve lived a few lives. I was a skater boy as a young teen. Think huge jeans, Globe sneakers and blonde tipped hair. Then I progressed to emo-slash-punk with skin tight black jeans and fringe covering half the face. We all had Myspace pages and competed with each other around who’s page had the cooler graphics and music. Simpler times.
Tell me a bit about how you first became interested in clothing and style.
I was a fairly nerdy kid, insecure and disinterested in style (hell of a combo). At 15, my dad scored me a casual job working at a small menswear shop in the suburbs, and that’s when I finally had some extra money to buy some ‘cool’ clothes. The confidence boost that came from dressing well and interacting with adults at the shop changed my life.
Fit two
How did you become interested in tailoring? Was there a moment that sparked it?
You could say tailoring found me. I coasted along after high school and slowly worked my way up from small local menswear shops to larger luxury houses. The opportunity (and better pay) was in tailoring, so that’s the way I went. It helped that young, slim me looked pretty good in a suit back then!
How, if at all, has your personal style changed over time?
I was very trend driven all the way up until my wife and I founded Informale. I was always keen to impress others by the labels I was wearing and the way I put outfits together. I used to screenshot street style photos and try to replicate each minute detail. Designing clothes and becoming an advocate of ‘buy less, buy better’ has completely changed my perspective on style. Now, I dress simply with an easy colour palette. This allows me to appreciate each garment in its own right. I know it all fits well, I know the colours work, I know where and how it’s all made, and most of all, I know I look great. Feels good, man.
Fit three
What was your first significant fashion purchase?
When I was 24, I travelled to New York and bought a cotton/cashmere unstructured blazer from a now-closed shop called Carson Street, made by a now-defunct brand called Eidos. It was probably the hottest brand in menswear at the time, and cost me around $1,300 AUD (more than 1/3 of my monthly wage at the time). I felt like a king wearing that thing, and ended up selling it on to someone who hopefully still enjoys it today.
You’ve worked for a handful of luxury fashion brands. How do you think Australian men’s taste for tailoring has changed over the years?
10+ years ago, men wore suits. Today, almost nobody wears suits. This means tailoring has had to adapt. Outside of a tiny group of professions still holding on to the old ways, the only place appropriate for tailoring in Australia these days are events. Parties, galas, weddings. I’m still waiting for Aussie guys to become more adventurous with colours and fabrics, though. Another charcoal wool suit? No thanks.
Where do you look for inspiration when designing for Informale?
I am always looking for inspiration, and I usually find it in vintage shops and old photos. Sometimes our regular clients bring their favourite vintage pieces into our shop, too. I look for unique and interesting military and workwear garments and take great enjoyment in re-engineering them with our signature ‘tailored flavour’.
Fit four
Do you have any tips for how to break up a made-to-measure suit or wear tailoring in a less stuffy, more interesting way?
Easy. Go wider. A jacket with an extended shoulderline, some drape in the chest and some room through the sleeves. Trousers with a high rise and wide leg. A simple recipe that few understand!
Has your personal style changed much since starting your own brand?
My personal style has changed completely. I’ve never dressed so simply in my life, focusing on cut, colour and quality. Less fuss equals less stress and more enjoyment.
Fit five
How would you describe the menswear scene right now in Melbourne?
From an industry standpoint, the menswear scene has been absolutely gutted this year with closures of our two biggest and best department stores, Masons and Harrolds. The smaller independent shops are going strong as far as I know, but we’re still waiting to see who will rise to fill that void. Men in general are becoming more aware of smaller independent labels and makers, who in turn are teaching them to dress better and care more about who they support. I feel good about where it’s all heading!
Any brands (other than Informale, of course) you’re particularly loving right now?
Nami Man, another local menswear brand, is absolutely killing it right now. Alden shoes are the best in the game. When it comes to tailoring, shout out to my friends at Mawson Ossa in Sydney for making the best tuxedo I’ve ever seen (and owned).
Where are some of your favourite places to shop in Melbourne?
I love strolling from Smith Street up Gertrude Street, starting at Double Monk for shoes, chatting to the boys at Modern Classic and Urban Lupe, Le Labo and Flaner for perfumes and candles, and then heading over to Mediterranean Wholesalers on Sydney Road to load up on my week’s groceries. If you know, you know.
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