The style evolution of Pharrell

From his N.E.R.D days in the early aughts to his current post as the head honcho at Louis Vuitton, Pharrell's style has come along way. We chart it in pictures

By Joseph Furness

Published: Nov 28, 2024

Pharrell at Louis Vuitton SS24 — Pharrell takes a bow after his debut runway show for Louis Vuitton | Getty Images

WHEN PHARRELL WILLIAMS was appointed men’s creative director of Louis Vuitton on Valentine’s Day 2023, he faced a colourful brick wall of backlash from certain corners of the world. Fashion critics, both professional and amateur, questioned the validity of the Virginia Beacher’s experience and his relevance to the French maison.

Hitting Australian cinemas next week, the musician-turned-designer’s documentary-style Lego auto-biopic, Piece by Piece, acts as a clever, patient clapback which breaks through the criticism by underlining fashion’s importance to Pharrell’s brand and existence. It portrays P as a multi-hyphenate who understands style as a form of communication and a tool to contest conventions (he is just one of three people of colour currently helming a luxury legacy label, lest we forget).

In a relatively early scene in the film, music manager Rob Walker recalls the day he first met Pharrell and his record production compadre Chad Hugo (together, they are The Neptunes). Walker remembers thinking: “These guys look like somebody.”

Later on in the film, Queens-born rapper N.O.R.E remarks that “Pharrell wanted to make hip-hop but not look like a hip-hop star”. “He was endorsing high-end designers before everybody else,” says another peer.

During the flick’s 1hr 34m runtime, the boundary-pushing polymath’s minifigure is clad in Commes Des Garçons and Moschino and Vivienne Westwood and a lot of indistinguishable but decidedly fancy watches. He also sports Adidas, Vans, Human Made and Polo Ralph Lauren.

Plus, clothes of his own design from Billionaire Boys Club and Icecream (the streetwear labels he co-founded with Bape’s brainfather, Nigo) and, of course, Louis Vuitton. He transcends boundaries, and his sartorial endeavours are all the better for it.

Below we explore the key moments in Pharrell’s fashion journey, from his early days to his influential role helming a legacy luxury label.

Pharrell Attends a PS2 Event in NYC in September 2001

Amongst a Y2K crowd decked out in Timbs, baggy jeans and oversized tees, Pharrell made an impact in his fitted tee, sailing-style shorts and “Truckee River Rafting” cap.

N.E.R.D in Chicago in August 2002

Pharrell has always been an Adidas guy. Or should we say bloke, since this ‘fit combining an eighties three-striped tracktop, slightly baggy jeans and black shell toes is rather Britpop-coded.

Pharrell Arrives at the VMAs With Justin Timberlake in August 2003

He’s been blurring the lines between smart and casual since the early 2000s. Here, alongside Justin Timberlake – who clearly got the memo (he might be suited but he certainly wasn’t booted), Pharrell – went business on the top and bottom, but party in the middle by way of some slouchy denim.

Pharrell Attends a Gala Dinner Hosted by Roberto Cavalli at the MMA in December 2004

Pharrell proved he was standing on business in 2004 in this Big Baller fur coat. (The secret to his look, if you’re keen to recreate it with faux fur, is keeping it spruce and low-key beneath.)

Pharrell in Los Angeles in December 2004

A typical noughties Pharrell ‘fit: a Bape camo hoodie (by his friend, Nigo), a pair of loose faded jeans and some buzzy creps.

Pharrell Attends the Louis Vuitton 150th Anniversary Party in February 2005

Almost two decades after Pharrell wore this baseball jacket, he recreated it using the finest materials – including pearls and calfskin – for his inaugural collection for LV SS24.

See it here.

Pharrell in NYC in February 2007

As well as breaking down the barriers between streetwear and formalwear, Pharrell has always been comfortable crossing the boundaries of menswear and womenswear. Case in point: P lugging around a giant purple Hermes Birkin bag in The Big Apple back in ’07.

Pharrell at a Proenza Shouler NY Fashion Week Show in September 2011

A true tastemaker excels in both minimalism and maximalism. Note that the loud Chanel branding triumphed here as the rest of the look – including the buzzcut and the lack of jewellery – is so quiet.

Pharrell in the Blurred Line Music Video in March 2013

2013 marked the start of a new era for Pharrell. Before releasing GIRL – his second solo album following 2006’s In My Mind – and his singles with Daft Punk, he partnered with Robin Thicke and T.I. on “Blurred Lines”. For the video, he wore a NASA-chic metallic silver ensemble.

It’s almost as if he was manifesting his rocket into the stratosphere…

Pharrell, Daft Punk and Nile Rodgers at the MTV VMAs in New York City in August in 2013

The silver themed continued throughout 2013, coming to a climax at the MTV VMAs where he performed with Daft Punk and Nile Rodgers in matching ‘fits.

Pharrell at the Brit Awards in London in February 2014

The Vivienne Westwood hat that needs no introduction styled with some quirky, eclectic, preppy garms that suit his British surroundings.

Pharrell at the 56th Grammy Awards in Los Angeles in January 2014

This is the Pharrell ‘fit that many would consider his most iconic. It’s the very look his waxwork figure wears in Madame Tussauds New York.

A quick run-through: Vivienne Westwood hat, Pharrell x Uniqlo “I Am Other” tee, Adidas jacket, jeans and brown Timberland boots.

Pharrell at his Hollywood Walk of Fame Ceremony in December 2014

Pharrell brought some colour to his Walk of Fame ceremony via Billionaire Boys Club (a brand he founded) and Adidas and Timberland (brands he began to collaborate with that very year).

Pharrell Performing at Stevie Wonder’s All-Star Salute in Los Angeles in February 2015

At Stevie Wonder’s All-Star Salute, Pharrell seemingly paid homage to another musical icon: John Lennon.

Also, what a fun way to do double denim.

Pharrell in the Empire State Building in New York City in March 2015

More double denim! This time, different shades. The patterned socks and khaki cap tied the painter-esque look together.

Pharrell and Helen at the 58th Grammy Awards in Los Angeles in February 2016

As you saw with the 2011 look, Pharrell has always had a thing of Chanel. And during the mid-2010s P became friends with the late Karl Lagerfeld which led to numerous Pharrell x Chanel moments.

Here’s an early one from 2016: he attended the 58th Grammys alongside his wife, Helen, he paired his Chanel jacket with a graphic tee, ripped jeans and some Pharrell x Adidas HU NMDs.

Pharrell in Paris 2016

Paris unlocks the best in Pharrell. On this particular day in the French capital, he was experimenting with sizes by rocking a slim, cropped Vanson jacket atop an oversized Raf Simons knit. The oversized beanie worn write at the top of the noggin and the Timberlands counterbalance each other by adding weight to the top and bottom of the ensemble.

Pharrell in a Chanel Show at the Hotel Ritz in Paris in December 2016

Pharrell’s first Chanel runway appearance! And it’s a look that’s been remembered thanks to the intricately detailed knee-length jacket.

Pharrell at BET’s American Black Film Festival in Los Angeles in February 2017

Pharrell’s get-up – comprising a Stella McCartney fringed jumper, some ripped jeans and a pair of 6-Inch Timbs – for the 2017 American Black Film Festival offered a peak at the multi-hyphenate’s bohemian side.

Pharell at the 89th Annual Academy Awards in Hollywood in February 2017

The most perfect blend of Karl-era Chanel glamour and Pharrell charisma graced the 89th Oscars red carpet.

Pharrell and Helen at the Met Gala in New York in May 2017

The magic of Pharrell and Helen’s 2017 Met Gala (theme: Rei Kawakubo, founder of Commes Des Garçons) looks is in the details, from the “REI” beneath the rip of P’s jeans, to the sparkle on his blazer, to the badges on his biker to the asymmetry of Helen’s ear jewellery.

Pharrell In a Chanel Show at The MMA in December 2018

A Pharrell fashion moment ingrained into our psyche. Here, the hitmaker is dripped out in a gold Chanel look from the Pre-Fall 2019 collection, looking like a true Pharaoh.

Pharrell and Helen at a Chanel Couture Show in January 2019

Pharrell carries the Egyptian vibes through into 2019 with a heliographic sweatshirt paired with jeans and a personalised Chanel belt. Pops of neon on the Richard Mille strap and the sneakers add pizzazz.

Pharrell at the European Premiere of The Lion King Live-Action Remake in London in July 2019

The Lion King (2019): a big-budget film of serious scale and importance to Disney but, after everything, is a CGI picture based on a family animation. Pharrell balanced this juxtaposition with a twist on the classic for the yellow carpet: a black tie look complete with shorts. The touches of gold (see: the hardware on his Pharrell x Chanel loafers, his blonde locks and the gold clasp on his belt) plays to the theme of the film.

Pharrell at the Annual Parsons Benefit in New York in May 2019

In 2019, Pharrell began to rock a lot of Cactus Plant Flea Market – a brand founded by his former assistant, Cynthia Lu. Just as he did in 2001, he pairs the graphic top with some shorts and a flashy watch. On feet: the same Chanel x Pharrell loafers he’s wearing in the image from The Lion King premiere above (if Pharrell can re-wear his clothes, so can you!).

Pharrell at a Dior Haute Couture Show in Paris in January 2022

Pharrell’s inner boho child came out to play once again in 2022, combining his usuals of a Nigo-designed Human Made cap and tee along with a whimsical long cardi and a little bag (both by Chanel), plus some cowboy-esque boots and pearl sunnies.

Pharrell at the the 65th Grammy Awards in Los Angeles in February 2023

Ernest W. Baker was Pharrell’s brand of choice at the 2023 Grammy award ceremony. As always, he made red leather his own. And, again, there’s a Human Made cap atop his head.

Pharrell at His First Louis Vuitton Show in Paris in June 2023

Nobody knew quite what to expect from the opening chapter of Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton. It certainly wasn’t camouflage damier, despite it making total sense for the fusion of the man and the maison.

Fun fact: Lego Pharrell wears this exact look at the end of Piece by Piece!

Pharrell with Stefano Pilati at a Dior Paris Fashion Week Show in June 2023

Soon after his Vuitton debut, Pharrell went triple denim in Men’s LV SS24 and Human Made (cap, of course!) along with a show-stopping $1m giant yellow crocodile leather Speedy.

Pharrell and Helen at an Official State Dinner in Paris in June 2024

Pharrell brought an air of Dallas (show and city) to an official state dinner in Paris just around the time his rodeo-ready AW24 LV dropped. The Skateboard P belt accessories is a fun, glitzy touch.

Pharrell Attends a Kenzo Men’s Fashion Week Show in Paris in June 2024

A man who’s able to amalgamate this many aesthetics (cowboy hat, streetwear hoodie, seventies jeans and sunnies, hip-hop trainers, classic luxe bag) and get away with it is a man worth looking to for style inspiration.