Photography: courtesy P. Johnson

IT’S FITTING THAT Australian Fashion Week is in full swing, because P. Johnson just dropped what might be the chicest menswear moment of the season.

For its first-ever runway show, the Australian tailoring brand served up it’s May 2025 menswear edit that made cold-weather dressing look unbothered, luxurious, and effortlessly sharp. It wasn’t loud, it wasn’t theatrical – it was cooler than that. Think full tonal looks in deep navy, slate, chocolate and charcoal, styled with the kind of quiet intention that suggests you’ve had this in your wardrobe for years . . . even if it dropped yesterday.

There was texture. And lots of it. From plush corduroy suits to suede vests and velvety wool coats, the collection leaned into a tactile richness that felt deeply seasonal. An all-black ensemble built from what looked like corded wool hit particularly hard – smart enough for dinner, chic enough for everywhere else.

Layering was another lesson. Denim-on-denim was given a PJ twist with an added black turtleneck and suede vest. Outerwear was long, clean, and commanding: double-breasted navy wool coats, sweeping chocolate trenches, and one particularly good caramel-toned knit set, layered with a nonchalant over-the-shoulder throw.

And yes, there were suits – but they were styled with restraint. One charcoal pinstripe double-breasted set, worn over a shirtless base, gave tailoring a softer, more lived-in feel. There was also a grey chalk-stripe version layered over a tonal knit polo — extra chic.

The key takeaway? P. Johnson’s version of winter is moody, textural, and understatedly chic. The silhouettes are classic, but the execution is pure 2025: comfort-driven, fabrication-first, and impossible to fake. Add in a soundtrack by Don West, a room full of good martinis, and a quote from Absolutely Fabulous’ Patsy Stone – “Whatever I choose is cool because I am cool” – and you’ve got a vibe, not a collection.

Because P. Johnson doesn’t just design clothes. It designs the man who knows how to wear them.

Scroll on for a closer look at some of the night’s standouts – or see the full collection at pjt.com.


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