Photography: Joe Lingeman

SURELY, I’M NOT the first person to tell you that a white Oxford shirt is a closet staple that every man should be in possession of (if I am the first person to tell you that, I suggest you take a few minutes to do a deep dive of Esquire’s style section after reading this, ‘cause you’re going to need a helping hand). The white Oxford is a quintessential basic for the modern man, a companion for both work and play, a versatile, elevated shirt that says “I have my shit together.”

Amongst all the many (many!) white Oxfords out there, one manages to reign supreme: the Polo Ralph Lauren Garment-Dyed Oxford Shirt. It’s the creme de la creme, the garment that, if you don’t have in your closet already, you need; and if you do have it, you know why it’s so damn good. For those of you who are unfamiliar, though, allow me to walk you through it. Remember this moment, the era before you discovered the Oxford shirt of all Oxford shirts. Your style is about to get so much better.

Photography: Joe Lingeman

It’s the most versatile garment you’ll own.

It wasn’t until this past summer that it dawned on me how universal the Polo Ralph Lauren Garment-Dyed Oxford Shirt is. Working in an office full of stylish men, I was already familiar with the style, and besides, a white button-down with the iconic PRL Pony embroidered on the chest is just a classic kind of look that I’ve seen bubble up around me for years. But this summer, when I saw nearly every single 25-to-30-year-old in Lower Manhattan wear their Garment-Dyed Shirts to bars, clubs, and concerts, to the skate park and to the movies, it really hit me — this isn’t just the shirt you dress up in. This is the shirt you live your life in.

Wherever you go, the Garment-Dyed Oxford is ready to follow. How could it not be? It’s both casual and refined, and on the one hand, it’s incredibly timeless; the white Oxford shirt is a style that’s been around since the 1800s, and is always ready to layer under a blazer or sport coat with some dress pants and nice leather shoes for an elevated look. On the other hand, it’s exceptionally modern; in many ways, Polo Ralph Lauren has never been as cool as it is right now (which is saying a lot), and having that little embroidered pony somewhere on your fit kicks it up a notch.

So, sure, you can wear this shirt to work and to dinner with the in-laws, as it was meant to be worn. You can wear it to your big Monday morning meeting and on all your shoulders-up Zoom calls, and rest easily knowing that, by the grace of the classic tailoring and flattering fit alone, you look good. But you can also take cues from the trendiest guys in New York City and wear it unbuttoned with a tank top underneath and some beat-up sneakers, or buttoned-up with a baseball cap and jeans and a tote bag, or really, any other way that you can come up with. That’s the beauty of a shirt as clean and timeless as this one—try as you might, you won’t be able to make it look bad in any situation.

Photography: Joe Lingeman

It’s softer than you’d expect.

Before you go to the Ralph Lauren website and get lost in a sea of nearly-identical white Oxfords, let me tell you what makes the Garment-Dyed version is my go-to. Having tried this one and the Iconic Oxford Shirt, I’m here to tell you that it genuinely doesn’t get softer than the Garment-Dyed Oxford, both within Ralph Lauren’s own selection and in the grand sea of Oxford shirts.

If you’re anything like me, a stiff button-down is the worst thing you can add to your closet. That sort of immovable, hard fabric is impossible to feel dressed-down in, no matter how scuffed up your sneakers are, and when it is buttoned up, it’s even worse. The perfect, versatile Oxford needs to be soft and flexible, and not necessarily keep its shape when you aren’t wearing it.

While you can opt for either the Classic or Slim fit, the slightly relaxed, bigger fit that the Garment-Dyed Oxford Shirt takes the cake, so we’re all about going Classic. It’s made out of a soft, opaque fabric that still feels breathable, and never stiff or uncomfortable. You can easily roll it up and stick it in your tote bag, that’s for sure. Polo Ralph Lauren uses a garment-dyeing technique that gives the fabric a soft, weathered feel, like a shirt you’ve worn a hundred times before. (In fact, the secret formula for the wash has been held under lock and key for over three decades—that’s how coveted it is). The brand calls the effect the shirt has the “perfect rumple” — it’s relaxed, but still refined.

Photography: Joe Lingeman

It’s designed down to the detail.

Some Oxfords are too slim and stiff, others too oversized and relaxed. Consider the Garment-Dyed Oxford to be a happy medium.

Down to the detail, it’s clear that the folks over at Polo Ralph Lauren thought this one through. This style is tailored with a classic fit that allows for room in the chest, waist, and sleeves to nail the not-too-dressy vibe of the shirt — these are the features that make this one so versatile, especially for when you want to dress it down. It has a split back yoke, too, with a box pleat designed to offer a fuller range of motion than your classic Oxford shirt might have; no more awkward tugging from underneath your blazers, guys. You can button-down the point collar if you want to, or let it be free, and you get the same prerogative (buttoned or unbuttoned, that is) for the barrel cuffs, too.

And if white isn’t your vibe (although I do maintain that every man should have at least one go-to white Oxford, and it should probably be this very one), the Garment-Dyed Oxford Shirt is offered in a wide variety of colours — 15, to be exact, ranging from pastel pink and rich purple to classic navy and bold red. At this point, there’s no excuse not to snag one of these, so what are you waiting for?

Polo Ralph Lauren Classic Fit Garment-Dyed Oxford Shirt


This story first appeared on Esquire US.

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