OTTO head chef Richard Ptacnik on 20 years of Italian excellence
At the helm of one of Sydney's Italian institutions for a decade and a half, the chef chats with Esquire about what's kept his outlook for innovation so . . . fresh
By 
WHEN RICHARD PTACNIK first arrived in Sydney in the early-2000s, he had no plans to become a chef.
“I originally came to Sydney just to study English for a few months,” he recalls. The Prague-born chef was coming off the back of hospitality stints in Germany and Switzerland, learning the fine dining trade in Berlin and Zurich. “Those early experiences taught me the importance of hard work, adaptability, and a real focus on quality.” In Australia, he saw that focus on quality is key; Ptacnik remembers the dish that first opened his eyes to the Sydney culinary scene: a ten-textured chocolate cake. “It completely blew me away. It was so creative and precise, and it really showed me how exciting the dining scene in Sydney could be.”
In 2004, Ptacnik joined OTTO Ristorante – the Sydney institution that makes a show of its prime waterfront view on Woolloomooloo Wharf, paired with modern Italian fare – as a chef de partie. The role was the perfect introduction to the cosmopolitan tradition of diasporic Italian cuisine, particularly in Australia where it’s so rooted. So it makes sense that back then, he describes, the local culinary scene skewed to more traditional. “People stuck to classic flavours, and there wasn’t as much experimenting . . . [But] these days, diners are way more adventurous, sustainability is a big focus, local produce is everything . . . people are more aware of regional Italian cuisines and are open to trying new things, which has made it really exciting.”
It didn’t take long for Ptacnik to ascend the rungs, succeeding then head chef James Kidman in 2009. Ptacnik’s tenure has continued the “unashamedly simple” ethos since the restaurant opened in 2000: firmly rooted in the classics with an embrace of Australian produce. “It’s not about copying Italy; it’s about taking those Italian traditions, techniques and flavours and making them our own,” he shares of the cuisine’s incarnation in Australia. “At OTTO, we create dishes that celebrate both Italian roots and the incredible local ingredients we have to work with. It’s the best of both worlds.
“[And] it’s not just the kitchen; it’s everyone . . . Together, we’ve managed to stay ahead of trends, and in some cases set them ourselves. That ability to evolve while staying true to our roots is what I believe makes OTTO a quintessential Sydney institution.”
Celebrating 20 years at the restaurant this year, 15 of which in the top brass, I ask Ptacnik what’s kept his perspective grounded all these years. “I fly – literally!” he effuses. When he can, making international trips has served him well in keeping his finger on the pulse: to see what his peers are up to elsewhere to bring new ideas back to OTTO. “International travel and connecting with chefs from different countries plays a big part in where I find inspiration. Being able to exchange ideas with other chefs has been invaluable.”
But ultimately his greatest point of call are his suppliers, particularly in the beef industry, where the top producers align with what Ptacnik is after: pushing for excellence. “They’re key to understanding what’s coming up and [they] provide invaluable insight into the performance of their produce – whether it’s seasonality, size, or availability. The more detail they can provide, the better informed we are to create dishes that really shine . . . We’re fortunate that Australian producers really care about the cattle they raise, and that care shines through in the final product, making Australian beef a pleasure for chefs like me to work with.”
As a diner, the quality of Australian beef is never lost on me, even more so when I’m travelling to places where it’s not readily available (in which case, get me out of there). But it’s a treat to hear how one of Australia’s great chefs has been able to continuously deliver a level of depth to his beef that accentuates its natural essence. This mix of keen market insight and simply knowing what people want is what’s propelled OTTO forward for nearly a quarter of a century, and, indeed, at the top of its game.
“Sydney’s food scene is all about fresh, simple, sustainable ingredients right now,” he observes of the trends currently at play. “There’s a big focus on using local produce and layering bold flavours with spices and herbs. And in summer, it’s all about keeping things light – dishes that feel fresh and vibrant are definitely having a moment.” Indeed, among his tenure highlights, it’s his in-house made pasta that holds a special place in Ptacnik’s heart. “[It’s] something I’m really proud of . . . It’s a skill and a luxury that not every restaurant has. And honestly, what’s an Italian restaurant without amazing pasta?”
He’s got a point.
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