Image I Dior Timepieces.

IF YOU LIVE and breathe watches, then you’re likely to know a thing or two about Dior Timepieces. And if this is true, then you’ll definitely know of Dior’s marquee number, the Dior Chiffre Rouge. The collection dates back to 2004 and was designed by then-Dior Homme creative director, Hedi Slimane. Twenty years on—and almost a decade since Dior last touched the Chiffre Rouge—the luxury French fashion house will reissue the iconic timepiece that not only introduced to the world its watchmaking pedigree, but now, in 2024, is the impetus for a significant comeback for Dior Timepieces.

What draws the eye naturally to this piece is its unique architectural asymmetry. The design aesthetic of Chiffre Rouge, which enables it to become immediately recognisable, offers a clear nod to Slimane’s original design, with its sleek and stealthy matte-black fit out and large lugs that make the watch appear strong and formidable.

Image I Dior Timepieces.

When looking at the new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph, you’ll come to understand why the watch industry has its eye on what’s to come from Dior Timepieces. Available in both 38mm and 41mm respectively, this all-black chronograph with its hints of red and abnormal crown position at four o’clock, is powered by one of the greatest movements in the watch industry: Zenith’s El Primero calibre. And, with the later release of two tourbillons, you’ll find their complications to be made straight from Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps, the same players behind the rebirth of independent watch brands, Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta (these tourbillons will be encircled by a rainbow of jewels, no less). For anyone wondering why the number eight is the only numeral of the date window bolded in red, it’s a playful touch to Monsieur Dior’s favourite (lucky) number. The Chiffre Rouge collection is finished on an interchangeable strap system, giving the wearer the choice in both a rubber or alligator leather strap.

There’s an obvious connection here with Dior’s parent company, LVMH, but let’s not mix up the conversation. While we know the Christian Dior Maison is owned by the luxury French conglomerate, it appears Dior Timepieces sits somewhere tethered between its fashion and watch divisions—its place is yet to be cemented, at least for the time being. Regardless, the sum of its parts are piquing the interest from watch purists all over the world, begging the question: is this the mark of a watchmaking comeback for Dior?

The new asymmetrical Chiffre Rouge collection will be highly limited, ranging from just 20 to 300 pieces in particular models. The collection will be available in eight new models for 2024, with five to become available this month, one from July, and two from October. In the meantime, Dior Timepieces is giving the watch world a whole lot to talk about.

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Image I Dior Timpieces.


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