What is #menswear talking about? Vacheron Constantin collaborates with an Aussie artist, Dior goes to the ballet, and more
Plus, Melbourne menswear designer Christian Kimber opens a handsome new flagship
WELCOME TO ‘What is #menswear talking about?’, a weekly dispatch where we discuss the news, rumours and conversations that are dominating the men’s style discourse, and therefore, our Esquire water cooler chitchat.
Scroll on for this week’s edition.
‘From geometry to artistry’: Vacheron Constanin collaborates with artist Reko Rennie for an immersive art installation in Sydney
Contemporary Australian artist Reko Rennie brings his penchant for geometric forms to a new immersive art installation at Vacheron Constantin’s Sydney store. A mirrored sculpture covered in arrowed stripes of blue and red is the first artwork you’ll come across, reflections pointed in all directions. A separate space inside fits out floor to ceiling mirrors in similar stripes, expanding what was first encountered in the sculpture but in an immersive room of blue and red geometric forms. Known for creating works that draw on his connection to the land, culture and Indigenous identity, Rennie explores this further with the watchmaker in an experience that erases perceived physical boundaries, asking you to instead fix your gaze beyond the self.
Visit the installation in the Vacheron Constantin store at 104 King Street, Sydney. The installation is now open and runs until September 30.
Christian Kimber’s flagship store opens in the heart of Melbourne
In the buzzy Collins Street luxury precinct, and just around the corner on Little Collins Street, it’s here that Australian menswear designer Christian Kimber has set up his new flagship store. The new location will house Kimber’s ready-to-wear range spanning suits, shirts, knitwear, and footwear, with a dedicated styling area and a tailor’s work room for hosted consultations. Designed in earthy tones with a floor plan that makes shopping here feel like you’re perusing through a stylish wardrobe, Kimber set out to make his flagship as intimate and collaborative a space as possible. “We wanted to create a space where clients linger, explore collections and discuss designs,” says Kimber. “Weâve focused on all the things that might make people feel at home . . . weâve built the most beautiful open wardrobes to house our garments.”
Continuously drawing inspiration from the Australian landscape since founding his eponymous brand in 2014, and designing in fabrics accomodating it too, award-winning interior designer Brahman Perera wanted to extend Kimber’s sartorial vision further with the new space. “Weâve taken inspiration from tailors, workrooms and artisans workshops and added luxury hallmarks that echo Christianâs designs that feature a colour palette and materials found in nature,â says Perera. “Each component of the store is carefully considered. Thereâs nothing over-the-top. We were really conscious that we wanted to make the clothes stand out and sing.”
Dior Men’s Kim Jones takes you to the ballet studio
A hallmark of British designer Kim Jones’ work at Dior is his ability to channel the house’s haute couture into present day menswear. Since arriving five years ago, Jones has translated some of Dior’s iconic silhouettes – the Bar Jacket, for instance – into suits and oblique jackets with clean lines, elevating everyday pieces that balance the technical with the traditional. The result has so far been an ongoing experiment of contrasts: the masculine and feminine, the functional and poetic, the utilitarian and graceful.
Unveiled earlier this year in Paris, Jones’ autumn/winter 2024 show took inspiration from the world of ballet, and the masculine sensuality that male dancers perform with. Legendary Soviet ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev was a well-known source of inspiration. âNureyev is the ballet dancer that every ballet dancer would want to be,” said Jones at the time of the show. “He loved luxury, he understood the finer things in life, and quality and craftsmanship.” From the collection, knit unitards and waistbands recalled the dancer’s on-stage uniform, while silken robes printed with elaborate silver toile de jouy imagined Nureyev’s after-hours lounging.
But Jones also found inspiration closer to home in his uncle Colin Jones, a dancer who joined the British Royal Ballet in 1953. Now, Jones’ intimate ties to the art of ballet take centre stage once more in a new campaign for the collection. Here, models pose on the bar, wearing ballet loafers in the Diorama pattern. And Jones’ New Look-inspired oblique jackets are reinterpreted here with structured shoulders that trail down into a tailored, sculptural fit. Casual-luxe is perhaps the Jonesian agenda – as matching sets of shorts and scoop-neck jackets are lavishly embellished but still remain pragmatic for everyday wear – because these are pieces to be worn with ease.
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Mullets are out, the new ‘mod cut’ is in. Hereâs how to do it in 2024