Yes, you should invest in a sweater vest

It's the perfect garment for weather that won't behave

By Johnny Davis

Published: Oct 8, 2024

Tyler, The Creator in a sweater vest — Image: Dave Benett

WHY IS THE SWEATER vest so often associated with oddballs? Perhaps it’s because it was born from a pretty peculiar place itself.

According to knitwear specialists John Smedley, the sleeveless style originated in Michigan in the very early 20^th Century, when the state’s football team was given knitted tops for kit, and one player customised theirs by chopping the sleeves off. Hey presto: a new layer that warmed the torso but kept the arms free was invented.

Harry Styles in a Princess Diana-esque sheep sweater vest. Image: Robert Kamau

Pop culture has teamed the “sleeveless cardigan” with independent thinkers ever since. Bill Murray, Tintin, Frank Spencer and Harry Potter were all fans. More power to them.

The sweater vest is an ideal way to layer up at this time of year, when the weather can’t decide what it’s doing. (When style mavens talk about a “transitional wardrobe”, it’s a good bit of kit to keep in mind.)

A young Brad Pitt in a sweater vest. Image: Ron Galella

The sweater vest has gained modern momentum thanks to high-profile fans like Harry Styles, Timothée Chalamet and Tyler, The Creator. Meanwhile, the current interest in the 1990s has given new credence to knit-vested photos of youthful Brad Pitt and Chandler Bing from Friends.

Prep-adjacent designers Margaret Howell, Drake’s and Aimé Leon Dore have made the style a permanent fixture of their collections – the fact it can be dressed up or dressed down, and styled with almost anything is one reason why.

“It’s a versatile garment,” says Michael Hill, creative director of Drake’s. “I tend to lean towards wearing and styling a sweater vest with a shirt, either a classic Oxford, a chambray or a denim. A tie works well if you’re pairing it with a tweed or cotton blazer.”

Oli Arnold, menswear consultant and stylist for Esquire and Mr Porter, offers a different take.

“The easiest, and arguably more modern, way to dress a sweater vest is over a T-shirt. Opt for something with a ribbed neckline, rather than an underlayer tee, and a sleeve that sits just above the elbow. Pair with a wider leg, pleated trouser and a pair of trainers or chunky loafer and you’re all set.”

This season brands including Hermès, Marni and Acne all have fine examples of the style. Full Ivy League points may be gained for going the whole hog and styling out a traditional, patterned Fair Isle style of patterned sweater vest, as seen at Ralph Lauren, Beams and others. Drake’s knit their version in Scotland, using rugged and warm Shetland wool.

“For a more contemporary option, try Manaaki, a great brand out of New Zealand,” says Arnold.

Meanwhile, once you’ve started in on your vest journey you may find all kinds of options become available.

“We have introduced a luxurious suede vest that’s made in Italy with a shearling lining and enamel snap buttons that sits somewhere between autumn outerwear and a proper winter layer,” says Drake’s Michael Hill.

“We make some great cotton and linen versions for the warmer months, and the fleece vests remain consistently popular, too. While it’s not a sweater vest, we’ve also recently launched a fishing vest in ripstop cotton, which takes a bit of inspiration from Japanese and classic country clothing.”

All of these references are somehow in keeping with the original sweater vest’s oddball origins – sportswear but not, invented accidentally on purpose, and worn pretty much anyway you like.

Independent thinkers need look no further.