Demna’s most controversial Balenciaga looks of all time
10 years and 52 collections later, Demna Gvasalia bids adieu to Balenciaga. Here, we roundup all of the designer's most viral looks over the years

TEN YEARS AND 52 COLLECTIONS later, the era of Demna has come to a close at the house of Balenciaga.
A designer’s tenure at a brand can be defined by a single look, a new silhouette. Uniquely, as Demna joined the Spanish brand in the mid-2010s, the Georgian designer reinvented luxury itself. At the time of his new appointment, Demna was busy toiling away with his brother Guram Gvasalia at Vetements, the provocative streetwear brand they co-founded in 2014. Sure, the line between his shenanigans there and Balenciaga was hard to draw in his early collections, but the opportunity at Balenciaga meant he could shape the flow of luxury discourse and billions of dollars.
He remade domestic debris – everything from shopping bags to yellow hazard tape – in premium materials; parodied tourist merch with price tags in the three digits; collaborated with Gucci, the decade’s other favourite luxury brand. On the latter, if we only knew what was to come. The Demna silhouette at Balenciaga was architectural yet oddly proportioned; the clearest expression was in his haute couture, which he brought back to the house after a 53 year hiatus, proving he was a kindred spirit to its namesake after all.
Below, we recount some of the most memorable Demna-era Balenciaga.
Demna’s best Balenciaga looks of all time
Spring/summer 2017 menswear

The first look in Demna’s first menswear collection at the brand. A taster: the oversized and strangely proportioned that would come to define his tenure.

Autumn/winter 2017

The year is 2016: Donald Trump just became President of the United States.
Demna’s work dealt a lot with geo-political ephemera. Case in point: he reimagined the Balenciaga logo in the style of US senator Bernie Sanders’ election banner. Was this solidarity with the Democrat-leftie? He’s got our vote.

I also like to call autumn/winter 2017 the ‘domestic debris’ collection: he sold versions of the brand’s shopping bags in leather . . .

A version of the luxe IKEA bag. Love or hate it, I still want one.
Autumn/winter 2018

It was hard to draw the line between Demna’s shenanigans at Vetements, the provocative brand that he co-founded with his brother, Guram Gvasalia. (Demna would leave in 2019, cutting ties with his brother, too.)
People asked at the time: do you pay for each layer? Or is it a package deal? It was the latter, and it retailed for $9,000.

This season also saw his first collaboration with the World Food Programme of all things.
Autumn/winter 2019

More domestic debris! This time coming with a mini version.
Demna also loved merch, so he sold his in the triple digits.
Spring/summer 2020

Demna was clever with a logo, taking the most overlooked in the world under his wing. So no one saw it coming when ‘Balenciaga’ was written into the Mastercard circles. This collection marked the start of his corporate fetish – the ‘office siren’ still an embryo.
You have to admire the runway set design for spring/summer 2020, too, covering a circular room floor-to-ceiling in the same shade of the United Nations.

Odd proportions were Demna’s bread and butter.
Autumn/winter 2020

I wouldn’t want to hug anyone in this jacket.
Autumn/winter 2020 also marked the start of Demna’s dystopian set designs.
Autumn/winter 2021

The world was in Covid-19 lockdown, so brands reverted to look-book collections.
Demna loved his knight in armour. Also notice his first take on the city bag.
Autumn/winter 2021 haute couture

An invite to the first Balenciaga haute couture show in 53 years was the hottest ticket in town that season. And from what we’ve seen so far, what could we expect of Demna’s couture? Why, but couture hoodies and jeans, of course.
Spring/summer 2020

By this point, Demna started to cast friends and industry folk to model his clothes. This guy you might not know; he’s usually behind the camera. It’s Juergen Teller!

Balenciaga x Gucci resort 2022

The collab to end all collabs. Resort 2022 saw the merging of two of the luxury conglomerate Kering’s crown jewels, Balenciaga and Gucci.
While you’ll notice the double logo first, the silhouette and accessorising was the perfect execution of Demna’s favourite pagoda shoulders with Gucci’s equestrian heritage. Though the jockey whip has a more kink feel here, it makes it very Demna.

You can guess these necklaces were a best-seller.
Little did we know then with this collab.
Autumn/winter 2022

The horrors coming out of Ukraine was re-traumatising for Demna, who fled the war in Abkhazia, Georgia, as a child in 1993. He sent models down his runway/tundra with leather garbage bags in hand, and whatever clothes they could take with them. That included yellow Balenciaga tape.

Even the photographers had a hard time.
Resort 2023

Some designers would bring you to Capri for their resort show. Demna brought the media and his high-spending clients to the New York Stock Exchange. Staged in one of the world’s biggest financial hubs, he sent models in leather bondage masks, exploring his interest in corporate fetish further. Topping it off, the collection debuted his collaboration with Adidas.
Autumn/winter 2022 haute couture

Couture scuba suits! Don’t write this one off too quickly, neoprene is a pain to sew. And to make it seamless, smooth as a dolphin? A technical feat.
Spring/summer 2023

Another one of his dystopian set designs, was the inspo Glastonbury?
Spring/summer 2024

Oh, let me just run to the shops with my Balenciaga grocery bag.
Pre-fall 2024

Another destination show, Demna brought his audience to sunny Los Angeles, staging his show on the palm tree-lined Sunset Strip. The city is also the natural habitat of one of his biggest clients and friends: Kim Kardashian. Aptly, you could say the collection was made for her.

Erewhon collab! And, yes, the paper bags were made of leather.
Autumn/winter 2024 haute couture

The Uniqlo U T-shirt, but make it couture.
Autumn/winter 2025

Demna’s last ready-to-wear collection earlier this January. At the time of the show, he proclaimed that he was done with the oversized – let’s hope he doesn’t bring back the skinny suit at Gucci.

This look would be a hit with the finance bros.
Autumn/winter 2025 haute couture

Who knows, maybe the bouncer at your favourite ritzy club is wearing Balenciaga haute couture.

Bye, Demna! You will be missed.
Related:
How the new creative directors will change the way we shop for luxury
How the guys (and girls) are dressing for Paris Fashion Week