Amanpulo is redefining paradise
Time pauses in the private Filipino island resort and its barefoot luxury
IT’S NEARLY BEEN a decade since I last set foot in the Philippines. Though born here, my family migrated to Canada when I was a child, so my returns have always been for pleasure – to trace roots, taste nostalgia, and chase sunlit memories. There’s something profoundly humbling about revisiting your homeland after years away. The landscape evolves, new towers rise, roads realign – and yet, a part of you feels untouched, innocent, inquisitive, eager to rediscover.
But Amanpulo was different. While the world outside spins ever faster, here, time simply . . . pauses.
A driver collects us from our hotel in Manila and whisks us to Amanpulo’s private hangar, where welcome drinks and a curated menu await. Settling into the lounge alongside my fellow travellers – a family exuding old-money Filipino elegance and a young couple who are either tech millionaires or influencers (the kombucha orders confirmed the latter) – my partner and I opt for crisp San Miguel Lites. When in the Philippines, drink SML.
Three beers later, the hangar doors open to reveal a red carpet leading to our private plane. The fourteen-seater propels us into a 70-minute flight across the archipelago, low enough to watch islands float by. At 53 minutes, a tiny island comes into view, embraced by idyllic turquoise waters. As the small tarmac draws closer, I feel a rush of quiet excitement: This is home for the next five days.
Upon landing, a fleet of golf carts and a welcoming entourage await. “Welcome to Amanpulo,” they chorus, as a frangipani garland is slipped over our necks and a glass of calamansi juice – the Filipino lime-lemon hybrid – is placed in our hands. I half-joke to myself, If Mike White hasn’t written the next White Lotus season here, he should.
This private island in Palawan is no stranger to A-list celebrities, politicians, and dignitaries. Tom Cruise, Mariah Carey, Jeremy Renner, Rachel Weisz, Beyoncé – the world’s elite retreat here for its pristine beaches, absolute discretion, and understated opulence.
We’re introduced to Gem, our guest relations manager, who leads us to our buggy for an island tour. At just 5.5 kilometres long, Amanpulo feels intimate yet infinite. The crystalline water beckons us to dive straight in – but first, pizza.
At Picnic Grove, one of the resort’s five dining venues, we order the Adobo Pizza – a reinvention of the national dish of braised chicken in soy, vinegar, and garlic. As someone who grew up eating chicken adobo over rice, tasting it atop artisanal pizza dough was a revelation. After finishing our first of many memorable eating experiences, Gem is on standby to proudly escort us to our accommodation.
Our Beach Pool Casita is a sanctuary of heritage and understated luxury. Amanpulo’s 42 Casitas and 17 Villas remain rooted in Filipino tradition. Each guest receives a pamaypay – a woven palm-leaf fan – a simple yet elegant nod to local culture.
Our private infinity pool overlooks Manamoc Island, while the powder-white sand beach feels entirely our own. Having experienced some of the world’s most breathtaking beaches, I can say – without reservation – Amanpulo’s shorelines are unmatched. The sand is impossibly soft, the water temperature divine, and the horizon infinite. Paradise, redefined.
Interesting to note: Over 40% of Amanpulo’s staff hail from neighbouring Manamoc Island. At dinner, Jose, our waiter at Amanpulo for 30 years, shares that three generations of his family work here. Originally a struggling coconut plantation, the island was purchased by Andres Soriano Jr. and leased to Aman Resorts under the promise that locals would remain employed. This commitment to community is palpable. At Amanpulo, you’re not just a guest – you become part of a timeless family.
Filipino cuisine, elevated
For dinner, I order Kare Kare – a beloved childhood dish of oxtail stewed in peanut sauce with fermented shrimp paste. Amanpulo’s version at the Clubhouse honours the dish’s heritage while elevating it with finesse, depth, and quiet sophistication. Sorry, Mom – this one’s a masterpiece.
Days of bliss
Our daily routine unfolds like a luxury poem. Morning swims in bath-warm waters; breakfast at the Beach Club overlooking the horizon, where dishes range from healthy smoothie bowls to traditional Filipino silog breakfasts with garlic rice. Service is intuitive, glasses never empty, and if the breeze stops, a personal fan arrives discreetly.
On our second day, we are invited to the Kawayan Bar – Amanpulo’s signature floating bamboo bar. Captain Wilson picks us up and whisks us to this private ocean kingdom for sundowners. As my partner sips his SML ritual, I snorkel with angel fish darting below. There are no bathrooms here, but nature’s infinity pool surrounds you – freedom personified.
Spa sanctuaries
No Aman experience is complete without a spa ritual. Perched at the island’s highest point, the Aman Spa offers sweeping views of the jungle and the ocean. My partner chooses the Seven Seas Massage, blending global techniques with warm bamboo and Himalayan stones in an open-air cabana, while I embrace the cold plunge pool, steam rooms, and a terrace kissed by ocean breeze.
Nature’s theatre
One morning, after breakfast at the Beach Club, Gem arranged a complimentary turtle snorkelling excursion. Our private boat glided across the majestic waters until the captain slowed and pointed overboard. Peering down, we spotted them – Green and Hawksbill turtles drifting gracefully along the reef. Slipping into the warm ocean, we floated above these ancient creatures as they nibbled seagrass and wove between coral gardens, seemingly unbothered by our presence. Sunlight fractured through the water, illuminating schools of technicolour fish darting around us, creating a living kaleidoscope.
Between June and November, turtles nest on Amanpulo’s beaches, with hatchlings emerging from August to January to begin their journey back to sea. Floating there, watching a turtle ascend for air, I felt an overwhelming sense of humility. This is what true luxury is: the privilege to pause and witness nature’s theatre in perfect, uninterrupted stillness.
The final night
On our last evening, we arranged a private beachfront barbecue. As the sky rumbles with a tropical thunderstorm, the staff quickly relocate us under a candlelit cabana. The magic remains unbroken – fresh seafood, grilled meats, the scent of rain, and the rhythmic lullaby of waves.
At Amanpulo, I was reminded that true luxury isn’t about gold taps or champagne on ice. It’s the ability to pause, to breathe, and to simply be. This isn’t just a destination; it’s an invitation to let paradise find you.
What’s at Amanpulo
- Accommodation: 42 Casitas & 17 Villas (each Villa with personal butler & chef)
- Transport: Private club car for each guest
- Dining: Clubhouse, Lobby Bar, Beach Club (Mediterranean), Picnic Grove (artisanal pizzas), Lagoon Club (Japanese), Kawayan Bar (floating bar), and private dining experiences
- Amenities: Aman Spa, Fitness Centre, Tennis & Multi-Sport Courts, Pool, Kid’s Club
- Activities: PADI Dive Centre, water sports hut, seasonal kitesurfing, bespoke excursions
- Exclusives: Discover more here
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