11 great things from Milan fashion week SS‘26: The slutification of minimalism and divisive tailoring
Our editor-in-chief shares his highlights from the world’s menswear capital
THERE WAS PLENTY TO LOVE in Milan this season – not least as there were so many designer debuts on show, from Dario Vitale’s Versace to Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta. There was also plenty not to love, but we exist to celebrate, not denigrate, so here are my eleven picks from the fashion week that was. It’s worth noting that everything below will be available to buy when the collections hit the shops in February 2026.
1
The Jeans at Jil Sander
Pin-sharp, just “dad” enough, understated-yet-sexy; the jeans in Simone Bellotti’s debut for Jil Sander were the apotheosis of the former Bally designer’s hot new brand of minimalism. Could we be seeing the slutifiaction of the form? This writer hopes so.
2
This Ferrari jacket
Rocco Iannone’s latest collection for the world’s raciest car brand lived up to its decades-long dedication to excellence. This immaculately crafted, creamy Kimono-style blazer – worn by model of the moment Kit Butler – is a case in point.
3
The Colour Combos at Versace
There was a lot of love among editors for Dario Vitale’s new Versace, but there were also questions. For me, it felt smart and full of new ideas. The poppy colour combinations in the 80s inspired tailored looks were tonally inspiring, either way.
4
The Entirety of Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta
The British designer mounted her first collection for the storied (and much beloved) Veneto-based luxury brand this weekend, and it didn’t disappoint. Playing on BV’s key aesthetic touchstones – like intrecciato leather – in a host of new ways, Trotter also showed an array of excellently proportioned tailoring (there was a fantastic burgundy suit with my name sewn right into it).
5
But also this Bottega Veneta Coat
Speaking of which, this coat – with its voluminous, tailored-for-the-gods upper and perfectly cinched waist – is the only thing I want to wear this winter.
6
Ties Styled With Scarves at Ferragamo
An interesting styling trick at British designer Maximillion Davis’s latest for Ferragamo, which felt a bit dandy but also chic. The trick to getting the tie and scarf thing right is to pick complementary colours and ensure your scarf is silky and small.
7
This Giorgio Armani Trench Coat
Few designers cut a better liquid trench than the late, great Giorgio Armani. The company mounted Signor A’s posthumous SS’26 show in the Pinacoteca di Brera on the closing night of Milan, and among the beautifully louche tailoring which defined the maestro’s oeuvre, this piece stood out.
8
A Pair of Flexi Santoni Loafers
A cornerstone of Santoni’s superlative footwear offering for longer than I’ve been walking, this ultra-soft, super-flexi loafers are all you’ll want to wear next summer…
9
And A Pair of Flexi Gucci Loafers
…unless, of course, you’re wearing these equally low-slung chocolate brown, square-toed horsebit loafers from Demna Gvasalia’s first collection for the Florentine brand.
10
Plus This Gucci Coat
Gvasalia showcased said collection in the form of a short film starring Demi Moore, Elliot Page and Ed Harris. The clothes were worn by models at the premier, and showcased in the cinema space in the days which followed. Perfectly zhuzhy and unimpeachably Gucci – but also entirely Gvasalia – this oversized cashmere coat is the piece to covet from the collection, because if I am, then you must, too.
11
A Suite at The Bulgari Hotel
Nestled just a short camminare from the fur coats and blow dries of Montenapoleone and equally close to the charming cobbled streets and vintage shops of Brera, the Bulgari hotel is a haven of calm at the heart of Milan. With expansive tree-lined gardens which most rooms overlook, a great restaurant and – most importantly – a state of the art spa, gym, steam and sauna, it was where I spent every free second I possibly could between shows. Run, don’t camminare.
This story originally appeared on Esquire UK
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