Nike Air Max 90

NIKE IS HARDLY SOME niche sneaker label with only one horse in its stable. But even among the brand’s extensive portfolio of kicks, the Air Max line stands out as one of the most influential in the history of sneakers.

Created by legendary designer Tinker Hatfield in 1987, the original Air Max sneaker featured the first ever exposed air unit (that little bubble on the side you know and love). It’s a fairly commonplace feature now, but back then, the air unit was a revelation that forever changed sneaker aesthetics.

A few years later, Nike released a follow up called the Air Max III, which featured a bigger air bubble, more aggressive styling and the words ‘Nike Air’ branded on the heel. The design was so popular it has since spawned countless updates, revamps, and collaborative re-ups before it was eventually renamed the Air Max 90 (or AM90, if you’re a sneakerhead). Today, these shoes can fetch up to five figures on resale websites, and every new drop is met with incalculable anticipation.

To rank the best AM90s is to invite criticism, but we’re not in the business of shying away from a little controversy. As objectively as we can rank them, here are the best Air Max 90s of all time.

What are the best Nike Air Max 90 sneakers?

10. ‘Mowabb’ Air Max 90

Nike Air Max 90s

Released: 2008

In a nod to Nike’s ‘All Conditions Gear’ branch of clothing and footwear, Nike released this colourway inspired by the subdivision’s signature tones in 2008. The sneaker was an instant hit with collectors, with the vibrant palette striking a chord. Smaller details like a speckled midsole and the use of snakeskin affect leather also pleased critics. The phrase ‘King Of The Mountain’ being printed across the heel is another nice touch.

Collectability: 7

Design: 7

Influence: 6

9. ‘Escape II’ Air Max 90

Nike Air Max 90s

Released: 2003

This list features a good mix of extravagant and subtle design choices, which we think is emblematic of the Air Max 90’s versatility. The Escape II belongs to the widely used Escape pack and leans more towards the calmer side of the colour spectrum. That’s an advantage, as it’s one of the more easily styled sneakers you’ll find here.

Collectability: 7

Design: 8

Influence: 6

8. ‘Mixtape B-Side’ Air Max 90

Nike Air Max 90s

Released: 2019

Air Max 90s are intrinsically linked to streetwear and hip-hop culture and rather than downplay these connections, the ‘B-Side’ celebrates the sneaker’s long-standing connection to music. B-Side is really an amalgamation of many popular features from previous AM90 iterations, incorporating nine elements extracted from the past. These homages include a mesh toe box, the ‘Untold Truth’ stitching on the heel and laces reminiscent of cartridge tape. On the translucent outsole you can also spot track lists that specify some of these features. The beauty is in the detail.

Collectability: 7

Design: 8

Influence: 7

7. ‘Warhawk’ Air Max 90

Nike Air Max 90s

Released: 2007

One of the most unique Air Max 90s you’ll find, the Warhawk frequently fetches sums in the thousands and is a prized collectible in the sneakerhead community. There’s something overtly 2007 about the Warhawk’s design – which is inspired by a Curtiss P-40 Warhawk – that we don’t love, but high collectable value and enduring influence land it a place here.

Collectability: 9

Design: 6

Influence: 8

6. Nike x Atmos ‘Duck Hunter Camo’ Air Max 90

Nike Air Max 90s

Released: 2013

The customisability of the Air Max 90 lends itself to frequent collaboration, and Atmos are one of Nike’s most prolific partners in this space. Atmos were first handed the keys to the AM90 silhouette in 2013, resulting in the creation of an iconic colourway. The Atmos shoe’s design represents Japanese street culture, blending the popular camo scheme popularised by Japanese clothing label BAPE with the traditional AM90 framework.

Collectability: 7

Design: 9

Influence: 7

5. Lunar90 SP Moon Landing Air Max 90

Nike Air Max 90s

Released: 2014

Previous generations may be able to recall where they were when the Apollo 11 spacecraft first touched down on the moon, but as that historic event is rapidly aging out of living memory, perhaps it could be replaced – at least among sneakerheads – by remembering where you were when the Lunar90 SP ‘Moon Landing’ sneaker dropped. Launched to commemorate the 45th anniversary of the first moon landing, this AM90 isn’t subtle with its visual references to its inspiration, with an an all-encompassing print of the moon’s surface alongside a decal of the American flag on the heel.

Collectability: 9

Design: 8

Influence: 7

4. Nike x Dave’s Quality Meats ‘Bacon’ Air Max 90

Released: 2021

The Air Max 90 is a sneaker with heritage, so it tracks that Nike would want to collab with what many believe to be the world’s first sneaker stores in Dave’s Quality Meats. The story behind this shoe’s striking colourway and atypical name goes something like this: strapped for time and pressed for a quick response from Nike, DQM owner David Ortiz walked into a supermarket, saw some bacon and was promptly inspired to create the colourway you see above.

Collectability: 8

Design: 9

Influence: 8

3. Nike x Off-White ‘The Ten’ Air Max 90

Released: 2017

Off-White founder and CEO Virgil Abloh was given the go-ahead to completely redesign ten of Nike’s most coveted sneakers for a collection simply known as ‘The Ten’ in 2017. The AM90 was one of the reimagined shoes included in the collection and it received a complete makeover, with new fabrics, a disfigured tongue and an additional layer of foam below it.

Collectability: 10

Design: 9

Influence: 7

2. ‘Silver Surfer’ Air Max 90

Released: 2003

One of the more popular colourways that has been mimicked across multiple Nike lines, the ‘Silver Surfer’ AM90 actually wasn’t too much of a hit when it was first released, but it’s since developed into something of a cult classic and has become a valuable collector’s item. This is hardly a shock, as the sneaker’s neutral whites, greys and leather accents allow the touches of red to jump off the shoe in a minimalistic but surprisingly sophisticated design.

Collectability: 8

Design: 10

Influence: 9

1. ‘Infrared’ Air Max 90

Released: 1990

Even after all these years, the original Air Max 90 – or the Air Max III, as it was originally called – remains the best the line has produced. The Infrared AM90 – so called because of its vibrant, pink-hued colour palette – redefined what a running sneaker could be. To this day, the Infrared AM90 remains an influential point of reference in sneaker design and boasts a place as a must-have in any self-respecting sneakerhead’s collection.

Collectability: 10 (no true AM90 collection would be complete without one)

Design: 10

Influence: 10

Are Nike Air Max 90s comfortable?

Nike Air Max 90s aren’t just comfortable, it’s a quality they’re actively praised for. This is largely due to their Air cushioning technology. The Air unit in the heel absorbs impact and provides a soft, responsive feel, making them suitable for all-day wear. The padded collar and tongue further enhance overall comfort, offering a snug fit around the ankle.

How to style Nike Air Max 90s

A strength of Nike Air Max 90s is their versatility. As you can see above, the AM90 comes in a variety of colourways that can fit different styles, but generally, they’re best suited to casual looks. For a streetwear vibe, pair them with slim-fit jeans and a graphic hoodie or oversized tee. For a slightly more elevated aesthetic, throw on a bomber or puffer jacket.

Remember that the AM90 is primarily a sport sneaker and that they can be worn for that purpose, especially when paired with athletic shorts or tapered sweatpants combined with a fitted top.

How to lace Nike Air Max 90s

When it comes to lacing Nike Air Max 90s, there are a few techniques that can enhance both comfort and style. For the classic look, start by threading the laces through the bottom eyelets, ensuring an even length on both sides. Use a standard crisscross method, pulling the lace from one side through the opposite eyelet until you reach the top. For a more modern, relaxed fit, you could consider a loose lace technique – skipping a few eyelets near the top for a looser, more laid-back appearance. Tucking the end of the laces into the shoe, rather than tying them in a bow, is another potential style choice.

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