I NEVER THOUGHT I’D SAY THESE WORDS. Not in public, not in print and certainly not in Esquire: eat less meat. 

There. I said it. But before the meat mob comes knocking at my door, let me finish the sentence: Eat less meat . . . but eat better meat. Because not only does our health depend on this shift, but our livelihoods, our landscapes and – dare I say it – humanity depend on it, too. 

You see, I’m not just some guy spouting off on food trends. I’m a fifth-generation butcher. My blood smells faintly of dry-aged sirloin. I’ve spent more than 30 years of my life knee-deep in the business of meat, running Vic’s Meat and Victor Churchill – the butcher shops that have been called the most beautiful in the world. Meat isn’t just what I do – it’s who I am. So, when a bloke like me says it’s time to change how we think about meat, I hope you’ll do me the courtesy of listening.

The first lesson

I still remember the first day I stepped behind the butcher’s counter. I was green. Eager. Wearing my father’s old apron – swimming in it, really. And he said something I’ll never forget:

“Son, don’t ever forget that this job starts with a death. Our responsibility – our privilege – is to honour that life by using every single part of it.”

That one sentence shaped my entire approach to the industry. Because let’s be honest: butchery isn’t glamorous. It’s real. It’s raw. It’s the transformation of life into sustenance (yes, for something to live, something must die – even if you’re a vegan). And if you’re not showing reverence for the animal, you have no business holding a boning knife. 

That’s why I’ve spent my career building a business that champions whole-animal butchery. We don’t chase trends – we chase quality. We don’t flinch at offal, marrow, tail, tongue or trotter; we embrace all of it. Because that is what respect looks like in our world.

Quality over quantity

Here’s the hard truth: we’ve been doing it wrong. 

We got greedy. Industrial. Efficient to a fault. We turned animals into anonymous protein packets. We stripped away story, seasonality, even flavour. And what did we get in return? Cheap meat that costs us everything. 

Enough. 

If you want meat that’s truly nourishing – nutritionally, ethically, emotionally – you need to change your mindset. Meat is not meant to be a daily filler. It’s meant to be a superfood. A celebration. A centrepiece. 

When you eat less, you can afford to eat better. That’s the crux of it. It’s not about abstaining. It’s about ascending. 

Choose meat that’s been raised with care, processed with integrity and cooked with love. Choose meat with a story. It’ll cost more, yes. But it’ll be worth more, too. 

Support your local butcher

These people aren’t just salespeople; they’re stewards of the craft. And they have a vested interest in your satisfaction. Their livelihood depends on it. Trust me: we remember the faces of our regulars. 

So skip the faceless purveyors of the industrial food complex – the supermarkets. Find your neighbourhood butcher. Shake their hand. Ask questions. Be curious.

Go beyond the fillet

Let’s talk about cuts. Everyone wants eye fillet. Or scotch. Maybe a bit of wagyu if they’re feeling fancy. But that’s just scratching the surface. It’s like listening to one track on a vinyl album and pretending you know the artist. The real magic happens when you get curious. When you start exploring the whole animal. 

Take the bavette, for instance. Or the oyster blade. Or beef cheeks slow-cooked till they melt, like butter. Ever had lamb neck ragu? Or oxtail stew? These are the cuts that carry history, tradition and flavour in spades. 

And here’s the kicker: they’re usually more affordable. Because they require time, not just money. Skill, not just searing. And in return, they offer richness and depth that prime cuts simply can’t match. 

Eating meat responsibly means going on a journey. One that requires humility, patience and a willingness to get your hands dirty. But I promise: it’s a journey worth taking.

Honour the whole animal

When we eat only the ‘popular’ cuts, we disrespect the animal. Full stop. Every beast is a symphony of textures and tastes, but most of us listen only to the chorus. That’s not just wasteful – it’s lazy. And it’s contributing to the broken system we’re all now scrambling to fix. 

So here’s my challenge: cook with heart. Get adventurous. Learn the names of the lesser-known cuts. Try a recipe from a different culture. Ask your butcher what’s fresh this week that no one else is asking for. 

A meat future worth having

That’s why I’m using this platform to speak directly to you, the curious carnivore. Over the coming months, I want to take you deeper into this world I’ve dedicated my life to. We’ll talk about everything – the good, the bad and the bloody. Sustainability. Animal welfare. Nose-to-tail cooking. Why real butchery is both an art and a science. I’ll introduce you to the legends I’ve met along the way. And I’ll challenge a few sacred cows (pun intended) while we’re at it. 

So next time you’re planning dinner, don’t ask what’s cheapest. Ask what’s best. And then eat it like it matters.

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