Generation Gucci: Demna delivers a flawless Pre-Fall collection
The show that never happened has been the best thing in fashion this week
IF THERE WAS STILL any lingering doubts as to the correctness of Demna joining Gucci, let the Georgian’s Pre-Fall collection put them to rest.
Launched this week, Generation Gucci was revealed as a “show that never happened”, a lookbook staged like a phantom runway, punctuated by a single spotlight that knowingly references Tom Ford’s late-1990s Gucci sets. It highlights the complex narrative that Demna is weaving for the brand, equal parts an exercise in archival research and visual interrogation, while also giving an early glimpse of Demna’s approach ahead of the personal vision he will reveal on the runway in February.
The wardrobe opens with lightweight silk-faille tailoring engineered to carry the feel of age, with buttonless women’s suits secured by minimal clasps, legging-slim trousers and the revival of the Gucci pencil skirt. Denim is stripped back to seamless construction with invisible pockets and hidden closures, while silk travel suits deliver pyjama-level comfort through refined cut. The lines of technical mocknecks and bodycon leather jackets draw directly from surfer wetsuits.
Coats drift with the weightless ease of peignoirs, pieced together from shearling, goat hair, silk and feathers assembled into intricate patterns over sheer bases. Eveningwear is built around lingerie references styled with silk blousons, draped miniskirts with matching tops and fluid gowns in jersey and chiffon.
House signatures from the ’70s and ’90s reappear sharpened: Web-striped racer jackets, newly sliced interpretations of the Double G belt buckle, full leather and suede looks and equestrian silk ensembles inspired by archival scarves. Footwear remains sleek and pared back, Valigeria ballerinas return in men’s sizes, loafers are feather-light like dance shoes, seamless-heeled stilettos introduce cushioned footbeds, and spiked classics read as heirlooms customised by their wearer.
Accessories centre on re-engineered icons: the Lunetta Phone+ shoulder bag in monogram canvas and chainmail, compact and functional; the Jackie 1961 reshaped into sharp rectilinear forms or expanded, softened silhouettes; and the Dionysus bag reimagined with an angular, more incisive edge.
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