Image: courtesy of Balenciaga

IT’S OFFICIAL. Following months of industry chatter, the celebrated former creative director of Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli, has been confirmed as Demna Gvasalia’s successor at Kering’s deliciously schlumpy third biggest brand, Balenciaga.

Chances are the storied couture house won’t remain all that schlumpy for long. Under Gvasalia, Balenciaga became better known for its enormous trainers and roomy hoodies, beloved by the likes of Justin Bieber and Travis Scott. Pierpaolo’s vision is altogether lighter, foamier – more Italian – and certainly more traditionally Fashion with a capital “F”.

For female consumers, that almost certainly means more traditional takes on the structural couture gowns that made Cristobal Balenciaga’s name. For men, the results are likely to be more nuanced.

Here are six things Esquire expects from the Roman designer with a tan as golden as the sun.

Colour drenching

Head-to-toe block colour was one of Piccioli’s calling cards at Valentino, and it’s unlikely he’ll shift too far away from all-over shades. Expect bright suits (most likely razor-cut, in contrast to Gvasalia’s signature wide silhouette) and smart little sets in hues of negroni and nocciola.

Hunkier models

Gvasalia liked for his models to look as though they’d just escaped a gulag. Piccioli prefers a traditionally healthier look.

A closer cut

Gvasalia’s silhouette was nothing if not capacious, so expect a return to Hedi Slimane levels of skinny from Piccioli.

Photography: Getty Images

Coral necklaces

Piccoli is rarely seen out of his all-black uniform, nearly always punctuated with a bright red coral necklace reminiscent of the type you can pick up for a few euro in Taormina. Expect to pay a little more for Balenciaga’s version.

Black

See above. Piccioli is also rarely seen without a pair of black Wayfarers set across his espresso-hued eyes. Could a Ray-Ban x Balenciaga collaboration be on the cards? We reckon so.

No more massive sneakers

We’d like to say we’ll be sad to see the back of trainers the size of a small mountains. We’d really like to say it.


This story first appeared on Esquire UK.

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