THE JAEGER-LECOULTRE (JLC) REVERSO stands as a testament to horological precision and timeless design. At this year’s Watches and Wonders presentation, the storied Swiss watchmaker has embraced its equestrian heritage with ‘The 1931 Polo Club’ – a celebration of the Reverso’s sporting origins that masterfully balances historical significance with contemporary craftsmanship. The collection demonstrates JLC’s unwavering commitment to precision engineering while honouring the Art Deco aesthetic foundation upon which the Reverso was built nearly a century ago.
“This year, we’ve focused on the origin of the Reverso,” explains Jérôme Lambert, speaking exclusively to Esquire Australia in his first Australian media interview since returning as CEO. Lambert’s journey with JLC began in 1996, and he previously served as CEO from 2002-13, overseeing a period of remarkable technical innovation and global growth. After senior leadership roles at Montblanc and Richemont Group, including group CEO, Lambert returned to JLC as CEO in January 2025, bringing with him both deep institutional knowledge and a passion for the maison’s craft.
His focus on the watch’s genesis coincides with the centenary of the Art Deco movement born in 1925 – the aesthetic foundation that continues to define the Reverso’s distinctive rectangular silhouette.
During our conversation, Lambert makes it clear that the Reverso represents much more than vintage reverence. It showcases how exceptional design can continuously evolve while maintaining its essential character. When asked what makes the Reverso an icon, Lambert identifies four converging elements: pure Art Deco styling with its characteristic colour contrasts; the ingenious swivelling case mechanism; its thoroughly modern approach as a steel wristwatch rather than a converted pocket watch; and the development of shaped movements tailored to its rectangular form.
The Reverso’s history intertwines with its geographical origins. Lambert explains how the Vallée de Joux’s extreme isolation – sitting 1000 meters above sea level and routinely cut off from Geneva during harsh winters – cultivated a tradition of complex watchmaking that defines JLC to this day. “When winters were much colder, the passes to Geneva weren’t open for weeks,” he notes with a subtle smile. “So nobody expected to get their products quickly. That’s how long, intricate work processes became the specialisation of the valley.”
This unhurried approach to horological excellence continues to resonate through the manufacture, resulting in 1400 movements developed throughout the maison’s history and approximately 430 patents. The commitment to precision and craftsmanship remains unwavering despite the passage of time.
The collection unveiled in Geneva offers 11 new interpretations of the Reverso, each representing a different dimension of the watch’s versatile character. The standout piece – the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater – showcases JLC’s technical prowess with its new Calibre 953 movement. Innovations include trebuchet hammers, crystal gongs and what Lambert calls “silent gap suppression” – engineering solutions that elevate the timepiece’s acoustic performance.
The Reverso Tribute Geographic presents another ingenious reinterpretation. Unlike traditional world-time watches, the Geographic boldly places its world map directly on the case back. “I always found it frustrating that when you have a fantastic world time, it’s always behind glass,” Lambert explains. “Here you have the opportunity to enjoy this wonderful world-time view without glass in front of your eyes.”
The map itself represents extraordinary microengineering precision, with 141 precisely drilled holes filled individually to create depth in the oceans surrounding the continents.
Among the collection’s most talked-about pieces is the Reverso Tribute Monoface with Milanese bracelet, which has generated significant excitement among collectors and enthusiasts alike. The introduction of the Milanese mesh bracelet marks a refined evolution for the Reverso, offering a sophisticated alternative to traditional leather straps and adding a distinctive tactile dimension to the
wearing experience.
The bracelet’s intricate weave pattern requires exceptional precision to achieve the perfect balance between flexibility and structure. Each link is meticulously crafted to ensure seamless integration with the Reverso’s rectangular case, maintaining its distinctive Art Deco proportions while enhancing versatility for contemporary wear. The sunray-brushed dial complements the bracelet’s metallic sheen, creating a harmonious visual continuity that has captivated the attention of the watch community.
The collection’s historical touchpoints extend beyond the polo fields that inspired the original Reverso. The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ features miniature enamel paintings inspired by the Persian Book of Kings – a historical text from around the year 1000 that contains the first written description of polo. “It’s the first time that men on horseback pushing a ball with a stick is mentioned,” Lambert explains.
The continuing collaboration with Argentinian polo boot maker Casa Fagliano reinforces the sporty credentials of this elegant timepiece. Meanwhile, a new partnership with chocolate craftsman Mathieu Davoine brings an unexpected sensory dimension to the Watches and Wonders experience, allowing visitors to engage with the brand through multiple senses.
At its core, the Reverso represents the pinnacle of precision engineering within a framework of timeless design. When asked about his vision for JLC, Lambert emphasises the importance of preserving craft traditions while embracing innovation: “It’s indeed a real legacy, and it comes to how we are capable of integrating new skills and talents generation after generation.”
The 1931 Polo Club collection demonstrates that, after nearly a century, the Reverso continues to exemplify the perfect balance between heritage and innovation. The swivelling case that once protected the watch face during polo matches now serves as a canvas for JLC’s extraordinary technical and artistic expressions – a testament to how precision engineering can transform function into enduring elegance.
This story appears in the Winter 2025 issue of Esquire Australia, on sale now. Find out where to buy the issue here.
More from Esquire’s 2025 Watches Special:
