THERE ARE WATCH BRANDS built to impress. Others built to perform. But few do both. Zenith, on the other hand, was built to aim higher – quite literally. It wasn’t named after a founder, a place or a legacy. It was named after the zenith – the highest point in the sky. And 160 years on, it still feels like the most accurate way to describe what the brand is doing.
Founded in 1865 by a 22-year-old, Georges Favre-Jacot, Zenith began as a quiet revolution. At a time when watchmaking was a scattered patchwork of tradespeople, he brought everything – design, engineering, production, finishing – under one roof. It was revolutionary then and now reads like the blueprint for modern Swiss manufacturing. He powered his factory with electricity. Built his own tools. Even opened a hotel for visiting clients. Driven? Naturally. Visionary? Definitely.
By the early 20th century, Zenith was already collecting top chronometry prizes. In 1969, it launched the El Primero – the first high-frequency automatic chronograph, accurate to a tenth of a second. And when the quartz crisis hit in the ’70s and ’80s, while others shuttered movements, one Zenith watchmaker stashed the El Primero tooling in the attic. A quiet act of defiance that would later resurrect a legend.
To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith has done what it does best – lead without shouting. The brand unveiled a trio of limited-edition chronographs, each rendered in rich blue ceramic, a nod to its signature colour.
The Chronomaster Sport, the Defy Skyline Chronograph and the Pilot Chronograph have each been reimagined in sleek monochrome and released in editions of just 160 pieces. For the true devotees? There’s also a collector’s box set with all three. It’s a sharp, confident drop – one that celebrates Zenith’s chronograph legacy without slipping into nostalgia.
It would be easy for a brand like Zenith to coast on heritage. But it never has. The Defy collection keeps moving forward – sharper lines, smarter materials, stronger presence. And that’s Zenith’s quiet power. Consistent without being predictable. Technical without losing soul. Design-led without chasing trends. Whether it’s a stripped-back steel Defy or a vibrant artist collab, every Zenith feels deliberate – and built to last.
A hundred and sixty years in, Zenith is still doing what its name promised. Not chasing the noise. Just staying on course, aiming high – and letting the rest play catch up.
This story appears in the Winter 2025 issue of Esquire Australia, on sale now. Find out where to buy the issue here.
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